The Ancient Ways in Australia's Outback

The weapon most associated with the Outback--the returning boomerang-- seems to have originated along the Nile River, not in Australia.  The other misconception is that it returns,  like magic, to the hand of the thrower.  It returns, but the thrower almost always has to chase it down.  

Another thing I learned--the returning boomerang is not an Outback weapon but a seashore weapon.  Hunters along the sea throw the boomerang to go behind water birds.  The ‘whoosh’  in back of the birds makes them fly inland, where hungry Aborigine await them (and the returning boomerangs).  

In the open space of the Outback, where it’s difficult to sneak up on animals, hunters throw boomerangs to strike and stun the prey so they can then finish the kill.  The truth about hunting with boomerangs in the outback is not as cool-looking as I imagined, but it prevented starvation.

For centuries, boomerangs, nulla nulla (digging stick), spear, and coolamon helped Aborigine make the most of scarce resources.  The coolamon, in varying sizes, could serve as a dish, chopping surface, or a vessel for collecting dew drops until there was enough water to drink.  

Non-returning boomerang and coolamon

Laws and Customs

Tribal culture and laws also helped sustain the Aborigine for thousands of years.  The 1,600 Walpiri tribe members split into clans of about twenty to reduce the risk of malnutrition. Not long ago, malnutrition—because of tooth loss or inability to hunt and forage—was the major cause of death.   In the past, once a person could not chew or hunt, starvation was certain. Tribes thought it was kinder to kill the infirm than prolong the suffering of starvation.  (There is supposedly a record of cannibalism, presumably resulting only from the deaths of those who were no longer able to provide for themselves.  I heard it once but found nothing to corroborate it.)

As recently as 1950 the average Aborigine life span was 40 years;  today’s life expectancy is closer to 69 years and the cause of death is most likely to be cardiovascular disease and cancer. 

Although what is considered to be a 'major offense' has changed in modern times,  Aboriginal tribal law can be brutal. While Australia's legal system may recognize traditional methods of Aborigine justice, it does not condone the brutality.

Serious crimes might be punishable by death; others punishable by acts that could be the equivalent of death. One of the worst offenses of the past would be disclosing water sources.  The Aborigine system of justice and punishments includes flogging and exile.  Crimes committed on another person might merit a spear in the thigh. You can imagine how in days past, these punishments could all be fatal.  If the wound didn't heal cleanly, hunting could become impossible.     Shame and isolation were harsh sentences where life depended on strong tribal connections.  Can't hunt, no tribal support--can't eat--can't live. 

Ancient tools and ancient laws give way to new ideas. Aborigine use their traditional tools today about as much as American Indians use bows-and-arrows.  The indigenous Australians are trying to preserve their culture; they teach the legends and the tribal laws;  they eat kangaroos, witchetty grubs, and honey ants.  But modern rules and modern tools often serve them better.

Modern ways might be better for digging up honey ants but some Aborigine are not happy with the other changes in their world.   For a short video from Australian Screen showing some Walpiri women in search of honey ants (and expressing some of their concerns about modernization), go to http://tinyurl.com/honeyants.

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Next: a distinctly lighter note—the Tim Tam Slam

Henley on Todd Regatta/ Return to the Outback

My hotel is near the Todd River--well-- near the Todd River bed. 

The Todd River flows through Alice Springs...sometimes

Today,  it’s the Todd Trickle. 

The rain I saw in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park didn’t make it to Alice Springs.  So for now, this is the same kind of (invisible) river the driver was pointing out  on the road-- a tree-lined bed of sand.

Australians, who, by the way, are the friendliest people I’ve ever met (or at least on par with the Irish), may also be the best at finding a smile in a difficult situation.   What do you do when you have a riverbed that’s dry most of the time?  Have a regatta! 

But …. regattas, like the annual Head of the Charles in Boston, involve boats… on water… right? 

Not how it’s done in Alice Springs.  Henley-on-Todd participants might have boats, but the boats are bottomless.  When the contestants sit down, their feet are on the sandy floor of the dry river bed.   At the sound of the starting pistol, they pick up their boats and run.  Or maybe teams particpate in the bathtub derby, carrying a one-passnger tub to the finish line  Or scoot in carts on rails.  Or just sprint. 

This photo is from the Henley on Todd web site (http://www.henleyontodd.com.au/)

I urge you to check   http://www.henleyontodd.com.au/  for more pictures and videos.  Really, this is different.
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Next morning, time for me to return to the Outback on a day tour I arranged in the hotel. This time to meet the Walpiri.

The entire time I am listening to my guide, I am beset by flies.  I’ve heard references to the ‘Australian wave’ and the ‘Aussie salute’.  I’ve seen people with hats with netting that covers their faces.  I wish I had one now.  It is impossible to ignore these flies. They buzz, they land, they hover.  I’m afraid to open my mouth.  So  I wave them aside (and wave and wave and wave) and listen. 

My guide has tremendous respect for the native culture, and the Walpiri Tribe greet him warmly.   His respect and eagerness to share their history and information about their lives is sincere.  Very sincere.  I’m a little surprised at how sincere.

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Next:  Aborigine Food