Sea Lions Play 'Keep Away'; their Fur Seal Cousins

The sea lions’ mischievous behavior was most evident later in our trip, when, toward the end of a day, a few of us were snorkeling with both guides joining us on the panga.  Where  so many currents converge in the Galapagos, the water can be cold; we were all wearing wet suits, gloves, etc. to be comfortable.

There were two friendly, curious sea lions who came close to check us out.  As we were winding down, a few of us returned to the panga.  Suddenly one of our travel mates pops out of the water and shouts,  ‘The sea lion got my glove!’

Both guides immediately dived into the water to try to get the glove before one of the sea lions ate it.  This was a sea lion rescue mission, not a glove retrieval errand.

How did the sea lions react?  They played ‘keep away’.  As we watched, astonished, from the raft, the sea lions threw the glove to each other, successfully keeping it out of reach of the men.  Of course none of us had cameras, but please trust me, I am not making this up.  

For several minutes, two playful sea lions managed to toss the glove back and forth.  It was almost like watching a basketball game.

Then one of the guides managed to distract a sea lion so the next glove toss was intercepted.  None of us had brought cameras out, but this video will give you a sense of both the sea lion playfulness as well as the way a bull might survey and protect his turf.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aJda1skeA

Galapagos Fur Seals- the Sea Lion Cousins 

The sea lions are also related to Galapagos fur seals but the latter are shy, and tend to be found primarily on Fernandina and Isabela, whereas  the sea lions, who have adapted better for life on the beach than seals, are on several islands.     

Sea lions, as you’ve seen, can raise the front parts of their bodies,  and also rotate their back flippers enabling them to walk and run on land. Seals use their front flippers to steer, and back flippers for power, and they can’t lift the front parts of their bodies in the same way as their sea lion cousins.

Life on the beach: Sea lions and mockingbird

    

More About Galapagos Sea Lions

Three things especially struck me about the sea lions:  the dominant male’s aggressive protection of his females and his turf (even against humans, if he feels they’re a threat); the sea lions’ general playfulness; and how much they reminded me of dogs. 

The day after our visit to Fernandina, when we were on the Islet of Sombrero Chino, I observed a male patrolling and protecting his turf and his harem.  He ‘ran’ along the beach on his flippers, barking hostilely at a male he perceived to be a threat.  Not for long, though. 

 

Sea lion examines guide Roberto

From these photos it’s clear the sea lions don’t see us as threats.

Sea lions ignore me

Playmates, maybe….but not threats.

The three pups below had been playing in the sea and came ashore together, still cavorting.  Their antics and their endearing faces are what remind me so much of dogs.  

Playful Pups

Sea lion frolics impress me  more than their aggressive turf protection.  They can be very funny… but not to everyone.

In a previous post, I mentioned the marine iguanas’ diet consists of underwater algae and the iguanas can remain submerged for 15 minutes or longer.  But when they need to surface for air and warmth, timing can be critical.  One of the problems they run into—playful sea lions.

While the iguana is heading up for survival,  high-spirited sea lions frolicking under the water can interfere with that ascent.  The sea lions are only playing…oblivious to the affect this may have on their unwilling playmates.

The dominant male sea lion may examine a human (or any other) visitor on land or under water to be sure there is no threat to him or his harem.  As long as the bull does not feel challenged, he’s unlikely to attack or pursue a human. But the mere appearance of a competitor can provoke a loud barking chase.

The sea lions' diet is fish.  Generally their prey is within a mile or two of the shore.  But if they have to expand their hunting area, they will…and that’s when they run the risk of becoming prey instead of predator.  Deeper waters and distance from shore increase the likelihood of encounters with killer sharks and hungry whales.

You may recall the ‘sea lion greeter’ when we began our trip.  To see a video of a more assertive sea lion on the docks, visit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfcn9RXJ8AU

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Galapagos Sea Lions

In my last post about Fernandina, I mentioned that Sally Lightfoot crabs groom the marine iguanas.  Tiny lava lizards help out, too.  These lizards, generally about six inches long,  survive on insects, maggots, and other critters that might also annoy the sea lion;  another symbiotic relationship.

I wasn’t able to get a good photo of a lizard lunching on sea lion flies.  This photo is from  galapagosislands.com

We met our first sea lions on San Cristobal island before we embarked on the Letty—this one greeted us at the dock  

Galapagos sea lions, related to California sea lions, are large, seem unflinchng, and live on several of the islands.  An adult male might weigh as much as 900 pounds;  adult females average about 250 pounds.

           

Unintimidated sea lions

Male sea lions are competitive all the time. but during mating season the stakes are especially high.  A dominant male takes control of an area and fights off other prospective suitors in order to create a space for up to fifteen—or more— females in his harem.  The male breeds with each of his females and is very protective of them.  Ironically, the labor of love can deprive the bull of time for adequate nutrition….it may not happen often but it could.   And that might make him an easier target for a rival bull who could, in a battle,  take over.

Sometimes the bull will be a little aggressive towards the pups.  Maybe he’s protecting his turf and gets a little carried away?  I didn’t hear any stories or see evidence of the dominant male ever hurting his offspring when I was there.

Females bear a single pup that bonds with mom.  She learns to differentiate her pup's call from the others. The mother hunts by day and nurses the baby in the evening for about five weeks.  The pup then begins to forage for itself but remains dependent on the mother sea lion for about 11 months.

Mother and pup

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Next: More About Galapagos Sea Lions

The Island of Fernandina and the Marine Iguana

Occasionally, instead of visiting life on the islands,  some of the inhabitants come to us. This frigate bird has stopped by to supervise us as we prepare to go to Fernandina.

frigate bird supervisor

After lunch we visit Fernandina, the third largest of the Galápagos Islands. It is also the youngest and most active, rising right above the hot spot.

The kind of volcano that continues to build Fernandina produces lava so hot that it flows easily, forming a shield shape.  Fernandina’s caldera -- the crater created when the mouth of the volcano collapses -- is about 4500 feet high. While the island has periods of relative calm, it is still very active with eruption reported in June 2018. 

 Map of Fernandina from mappery.com

We are going to a visitor site at Punta Espinosa, not far from Isabela’s  Tagus Cove.
The flat lava of Punta Espinosa has a Hawaiian name-- Pahoehoe-- that describes this barren, puffy/rippled lava surface.

Pahoehoe lava of Punta Espinosa on Fernandina

This does not look like it would welcome life.  Yet Punta Espinosa has one of the largest concentrations of marine iguanas,  and also is home to flightless cormorants, Galapagos penguins, and sea lions.

I’ve mentioned the Galapagos marine iguanas are the only sea-going lizards in the world; the different islands each have their own subspecies of iguana. The largest are on Fernandina and Isabela.

Meet Fernandina’s marine Iguanas.

Like most lizards,  the iguana bodies do not effectively retain warmth, so in the daytime they sit in the sun and absorb its heat, huddling together to better retain it.

The marine iguana diet consists of algae that thrives on the sea’s underwater rocks. When they're warm enough (and hungry enough), the iguanas take to the ocean.  Long sharp claws enable them to cling to the rocks as their sharp teeth scrape off the algae. When underwater, their heartbeats slow down to help them conserve energy and feed for as long as possible.  Generally stay submerged for ten to fifteen minutes, but they larger ones can stay underwater for close to an hour.

Dining on sea algae means a very high-salt diet.  Iguanas have glands that help filter their blood of excess salt, which they expel by sneezing. This forms salt crystals on their snouts.

You remember Sally Lightfoot, the agile crabs we saw on the rocks? 

Sally Lightfoot crab- the iguana groomer

The crabs' main diet consists of the dead algae and parasites they get by grooming the iguanas.  A nicely balanced level of cooperation that keeps both creatures happy.

I couldn't resist .....

 If you'd like to see a marine iguana

Sea Galapagos beach life in action: if the video below doesn't work, please visit 
https://youtu.be/4MXUcoLEwS4.

 

Next:   Sea Lions

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The Island of Isabela

We sail through the night to Isabela, the largest of the Galapagos islands, shaped like a giant seahorse.  Named for the Queen of Spain, this million year old island formed when six volcanoes  flowed together. 

In an earlier post (To the Galapagos!) I mentioned that these islands are one of the most volcanic places on the planet. To quickly (I promise) review the information: Earth has seven main tectonic plates floating on six-mile-deep hot rock.  Below the surface of the earth, the molten rock rises, cools, and sinks, making the plates move. Volcanoes form where plates collide; each successive eruption heightens the volcano.  In this area of the Pacific, the volcanos grow into islands.  The motion of the plates moves the islands from their 'birth place' a few inches a year, like they’re resting on a geological conveyor belt.  As the islands move, they change, becoming less explosive, more predictable, and allowing vegetation to grow.

One other special trait of the Galapagos--this hot spot is a meeting point for four ocean currents from drastically different environments in the corners of the Pacific   Creatures from each of those distant areas have migrated here, resulting in a unique assortment of life forms that evolved to adapt to their new home.

Isabela and Tagus Cove
We begin our day with a 6:45 AM wake up announcement to urge us on deck for a whale watching opportunity. 

Morning Whale Watch from the Letty

After breakfast we go to Isabela and take a panga ride around Tagus Cove, exploring the creatures that live on the rocks.  Not much green here.  Not a very hospitable looking environment

And yet, all these animals have made it home.

Brown Pelicans on Tagus Cove

Blue footed boobies on Isabela's rocky shore

Galapagos Penguins

The penguins on the Galapagos are notable for a few reasons, but most significant is they have come further north than any of their species. The Isabela penguins are small, probably the smallest on earth. They are less than twenty inches tall and weigh about five pounds.  There may be smaller penguins, but these are certainly competing for the title.
And now, meet the flightless cormorant.

The Galapagos Flightless Cormorant

There are several other species of cormorants in the world, all coastal birds and fish eaters,  but they can fly.  The Galapagos cormorant is the largest of the family.  Over millions over years, their swimming skills grew and their need to fly diminished. They have evolved to the point that their stunted little wings are about one third the size they would need to be able to fly.  

Our guides tell us that at the summit of the higher Isabela volcanoes, there are giant tortoises that weigh as much as 550 pounds--the largest on earth.  These animals can go up to five months without water.  In the wet season, they hydrate by gathering where rainwater has pooled, giving them sufficient water to get them through the dry season.   We don’t see any of them on this island.  But we will later...

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More of Genovesa: Lava Cactus, Swallowtail Gulls, Marine Iguanas

Before moving to a new home disrrupted my life, I was writing about the return to Genovesa Island in the Galapagos.  We begin the second visit with a walk past tidal lagoons, meeting herons and frigate birds like those we saw earlier today.
As we turn to head back to the landing spot on the beach, I'm once again gaping at this strange world around me  Now it's the lava cactus strike me.

Lava Cactus

This plant, one of the first to grow in an inhospitable sea-level lava field, has short stems and grows in clumps that can expand up to six feet.  While it is unique to the Galapagos, certain cactus facts are generally true.  Cactus spines are actually the ‘leaves’ of the cactus: they’ve evolved to thin spikes to minimize the kind of moisture loss that is routine for broad flat leaves.  Cactus spines also deter predators (how many animals want to eat a needle-covered stem?)


Next I meet the unique marine iguanas for the first time. They are the only sea-going lizards in the world.  The iguanas are unique in  two other ways: they are the only reptiles on Genovesa, and they are the smallest reptiles in the Galapagos.  

Marine Iguana

And then there are the Swallowtail gulls, who are found only on the Galapagos and one other island (off the cost of Colombia).  The Swallowtail is the only known nocturnal gull, adapted for night hunting with large red-rimmed eyes.  The gulls survive eating fish and squid who make nightly visits to the water's surface where they hope to find plankton.

Note the swallowtail gull's large, red-rimmed eyes that make it easier to see well in the dark.

The gulls stand out with their black heads,  large, red-ringed eyes, white tails, and red webbed feet.  A couple will lay a single egg in a nest made of lava rocks (much sturdier than twigs).  Both parents remain at the nest during the day, taking turns brooding over the white and black chick. After dark, the non-brooding parent will take to the sea and forage all night

The light chicks are safe in the nest because potential predators are not night-time hunters. And the chick's bright appearance, which might seem like a handicap, makes it easy for parents to find their baby in the dark.  

The gulls also have an unusual shrieking call that helps it navigate, possibly because of the way the sound echoes off the rocky surroundings.

Pair of gulls,  one of our group in the background

One thing continues to fascinate me--the gulls, like the boobies we encountered earlier, are not intimidated by us.  I know much of their bravery has to do with the care taken to protect them.  But I'm still amazed at  how close we get to the wild life of these islands.

We make our way back to our starting point where we have the option of enjoying the beach, going for a swim, or snorkeling.   Whatever we do, we're walking into the water from the shore.   

Some years ago I learned to scuba dive, and to get my certification I had to walk in from the shore as well as flip myself into deep water from a boat.  I did both.  But here, now, I can’t get myself far enough into the water to appreciate the sea life.  Maybe the current is too strong?   Whatever the reason, I return to the beach a little disappointed, and settle for enjoying the view and the shore life until we return to the Letty.

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Get Rid Of Stuff (A Moving Experience)

This isn't exactly a tale from the trail, but an explanation (apology?) to my readers and a few suggestions about moving.  Even if you aren't thinking of moving.

I often clarify that Original Tales from the Trail is based on  past travels, my journals and photos.

My most recent real travel--including flights, plane changes and all--was to test traveling as a handicapped person.

 

This photo of me at the Anhinga Viera Wetlands was one of the first photos of me using a walker... I usually shoved it out of the way, leaned on a wall,  sat in a chair.... you get the idea.  The entries about that trip will eventually follow. But this entry is an explanation for my absence...

I have accepted that I am handicapped (wasn't easy); I'll plan future travel around that (as I did the trip to Florida, where the above photo was taken).  I have more to write before I focus on travel for handicapped tourists.

But this entry, as I said, is an explanation and apology for the absence of posts.  My entire summer was consumed with moving -- moving to a flat condo with no stairs, to a home I can easily, safely and comfortably negotiate.  I learned a lot in this moving experience and I will share it briefly with you here.

Get   Rid   Of   Stuff.

You should find a good mover who has a good reputation.  You should plan carefully and allow time for packing and unpacking.   and you should  Get   Rid   Of   Stuff.

I *thought* I was good about keeping only what was important.  Hah!   Spend long enough in one place and you will accumulate things that make you repeatedly say,  'Why do I have this?'

Get   Rid   Of   Stuff

Don't wait to see if you will use it in a year.  Do you *really* need it?    Will anyone want it?

Get   Rid   Of   Stuff

Having cleaned out my parents' place some years ago, I ran out of the time I needed to really go through things.  So I moved a lot of their stuff with me.  I didn't get rid of it.  As I was packing for this move, I learned my mother was the same.   

I found my brother's and my elementary school report cards (I'm not saying how old they are but they were hand written).  I found college notebooks (again, not saying when I took those notes but trust me, no one can use them.)  I found all kinds of greeting cards that I had saved.  Why?  

Get   Rid   Of   Stuff

I admit there were a few (FEW) things I held on to even now (sentimental me) but I got to my wonderful, flat new place and as I began the arduous task of unpacking, I found myself asking,  "Why did I keep this?" (for example, dozens of worn bookmarks-- interesting thing to keep when I do most of my reading on a tablet).

So there's my explanation and apology.  My new digs are no longer totally chaotic. I'm ready to resume writing (which I have missed) -- writing marketing and PR material, writing my family's history, writing this blog.  

I am returning now to writing--- I will return to the Galapagos and write (consistently) about my trip there and to Machu Picchu.  I will follow it with additional trips and 'Tourist at Home' entries.  And   I'll write more about travel as a handicapped person.

And in between entries,  I will Get   Rid   Of   Stuff.   

Thank you, readers, for sticking with me.  

I welcome your comments, feedback and questions on any thing I write, including this apology/explanation.  

Next--return to the Galapagos.

 

Genovesa (continued)

Having interrupted the ‘flow’ of the Galapagos narrative for Porchfest (and a holiday break), we'll return to the islands with a few photos of the red-footed boobies we encountered in our morning on Genevosa.  There may be red-footed boobies on other islands, but the largest red-foot population is on Genovesa. 

 note the size of the wing

After the morning walk, we take a panga ride around the island (panga - small boat that we use to go from ship to island). From the water, it's easy to spot some resting sea lions among the volcanic rocks.

Sleeping sea lions

And now back to our home away from home --the Letty --for lunch. A few people go kayaking before we return to Genovesa.  I take the time to stare in awe at my photos.  (Not because I’m such a great photographer--because the variety and unusual birds I’ve seen in just a few hours has totally captivated me.)

Prepared with wet-suits for snorkeling from the beach, we return, this time landing at Darwin Bay Beach.  This is our first 'wet landing'.  This morning we stepped from the panga on to dry rock.  Now we are going to a sandy beach and step from the panga into ankle deep water, and walk to the shore. 

This visit begins with a walk along a carefully marked trail that leads past tidal lagoons.  The trail is set to protect the life on the beach. We see Galapagos Herons  (yellow-crowned night herons?)

Galapagos Heron (yellow crowned night heron?)

Galapagos Heron

Then there are the frigate birds.  The name, ‘frigate’ comes from the word used for pirate ships, because the birds have a bit of the robber spirit.  Frigate birds don’t enter the water.  To get food, they use their long hooked beaks to harass other seabirds until their 'victims'  drop their catch--which the frigate bird then snags before it hits the water (hence the pirate link). They also fly low over the water to catch fish that float close to the surface--a tasty dinner without getting wet.

female frigate bird and chick

Male frigate bird (note the red patch under his chin)

Under his bill, the male frigate bird has a red pouch that he inflates to a very impressive red balloon that attracts females during mating season (you can see the uninflated pouch in the photo above). While I didn't get to see the inflated pouch or the mating ritual in action, many who did have generously posted videos on youtube.  This is one of several worth watching: https://tinyurl.com/male-frigate-mating-dance

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Next:  Genovesa- snorkleing with the sea lions

The Tourist at Home: Porchfests - Somerville and Arlington, 2018

I’m interrupting my Galapagos blog series to talk about Porchfests.  One reason --it’s timely: there are still a few Porchfests coming up in this area.  Another reason:  Porchfest is an activity that everyone can enjoy, whether you walk, bike, drive, use a walker, crutches, push a baby stroller or get around in a wheelchair. 

Wouldn’t it be nice to go out on a pleasant spring or early summer day, stroll up the street to join friends and neighbors, meet new people,  and enjoy local musicians?

 Chaco  (Rock, pop, Indie, Funk) -Porchfest, Somerville MA

Want a change in music?  Walk around the corner.  Use your walker to go to another porch.  Blue grass, rock, jug bands, Latin, classical, a cappella, country, reggae.... what do you want to hear?  At Porchfest, you’ll find it.

This year, the Tourist at Home had the chance to enjoy two Massachusetts Porchfests for the first time;  one in Somerville and one in Arlington. 

Chaco

It’s not clear where Porchfest originated. The earliest reference I found was Newtown, PA in 2000--more of a block party that was a great chance to  just ‘hang out’.

Today’s music Porchfests seem to have started in 2007 in Ithaca.  Boston area’s first Porchfest was in 2011. 

Chaco

It’s a great way to spend some time.  Drive and bring a chair.  Walk and carry a blanket.  Get your walker or your crutches.  If you go, you’ll find music, friends, and neighbors.   Want a change in music?  It’s just the porch down the street.  Or around the corner.   Well, as long as we’re meandering, why not go up the block to hear some different music?

Minor Outages,  a cappella,   Somerville

Somerville Porchfest

Porchfests are well organized to take people through the community.  An Internet search will usually bring up a schedule, map, lists of performers, and locations.  

Mark Sandman at the Kickstand Cafe in Arlington Center

In Somerville, my friend Lisa drove a few of us to places we were able to park and walk (thank you, Lisa).   In Arlington, I chose early afternoon performances near the Center, that I could reach on foot (with my walker). 

The Quinn Connell Collective  (a talented group of High School musicians drawing from a variety of types of music)  in front of the Cyrus Dallin House in Arlington Center

This Tourist at Home really enjoyed both music afternoons going from one local ‘stage’ to another.

Hill’s Pond Jug Band playing in front of the statue of Uncle Sam in Arlington Center.

One thing is for sure.   When ya got a good thing, it’s gonna grow. 

From what I can find, there are over a hundred Porchfests throughout the country now. There are two  scheduled in the Boston area as I write this:   Saturday, June 23 Porchfest Quincy    and Saturday, July 7: JP  (Jamaica Plain) Porchfest  (click on the links for information)

Porchfests.  I’m hooked.  Already looking forward to next year.

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* I often remind readers that I write from the comfort of home, that my travel posts are based on journals I’ve kept when traveling.  One major change in the last few years is my mobility.  At first I thought ‘this will pass.‘  It didn’t.  I am now dependent on a walker or crutches to get around, and I’m adjusting.  The current travel series on the Galapagos and Machu Picchu and the next one (on Israel) are from a time that I was more mobile.
If you haven't picked up on my enthusiasm, I'll risk being repetitive:  Porchfests are a perfect activity for the (handicapped) tourist at home.  Choose where you want to go.   Go at your pace.  Through it all, you get to enjoy your neighbors,  your local talent, and your community.