Sunday, September 27, 2015

The Yellow-Eyed Penguins of Penguin Place Conservation Reserve

Our next stop, near the Lanarch castle, is  the Penguin Conservation Reserve.   These are Yellow-eyed Penguins whose existence is listed as threatened.  I think that’s one step above ‘endangered’.

I love penguins.  Something about the fact that penguins belong to the ‘other half’ of the world from my northern hemisphere.  We have polar bears; they have penguins.  And there’s something about the survival mechanisms that have evolved differently in various parts of the southern hemisphere.  In the far south, penguins huddle together in bitter cold, taking turns at the chillier edge and the warmer inner section; protecting newly hatched young under the feathers and belly that rest above their feet; the way the slide down ice as if they were in a frozen playground...

But I digress...we’re off to see the Yellow-Eyed penguins, who live in a more temperate climate.  The Yellow-Eyed penguins, known as ‘Hoiho’ to the Maori, once thrived in southern New Zealand.  

It is an unfortunate side effect of human migration that we bring with us things that don’t belong where we’re going, and remove things that are necessary to the lives of creatures already there.  The introduction of European mammals (dogs, cats, and more), and the development of land for agriculture, are just a few things that encroach on original populations and environment.  This isn’t new--humans have done this for 80,000 years (more or less).  For the yellow-eyed penguins, it has meant the destruction of natural habitat and a decline in population that has placed them on the ‘threatened’ list of species.
Yellow Eyed  penguin
Yellow-Eyed penguins (‘hoihoo’) are generally about two feet tall. (For those of you who know me--I am taller.  I don't get to say that very often.)  Their natural habitat is in coastal forests where they once had the underbrush for protection and access to the sea for food.  These penguins like their privacy, so nests are separate from each other--they don’t huddle like the Antarctic penguins.

The arrival of humans, non-native predators, and farms virtually eliminated the penguin habitat.  In the area we visit, property owned by sheep farmer Howard McGrouther, the number of breeding Yellow Eyed Penguins was about a dozen (or less) by 1985.  McGrouther took it upon himself to establish Penguin Place,  a suitable home for the penguins to breed at the same time that he preserved grazing property for his sheep.  

Annually the conservation team plants native grown vegetation in the reserve and creates ‘nest boxes’ the provide optimum breeding conditions.  At the same time, the reserve has taken measures to reduce the impact of introduced predator species (like dogs, ferrets, etc) and established a care center for injured penguins.  Rehabilitated or newly hatched penguins are banded to help track their lives and the population in general.

All that data cannot properly describe the experience we have. 
The Road to the Penguins
The conservationists have built camouflaged trenches to keep the penguins from being startled by humans.  They’ve taken great pains to replant natural vegetation and protect it from the intruder species that would devour or overgrow young plants.  

The Trench -- path to penguins

Hoihoo trench entrance
You can see the trench is designed to cause minimal disruption above ground. There is a viewing space cut into the top section of the walls, so we can watch and photograph.
We follow our guide, run along a covered tunnel to a viewing area, are careful to be quiet, whisper, turn off our flashes, keep lenses and limbs inside the tunnel. In the next post, I'll provide a short video giving you an idea of the experience from our point of view (couldn't really do it from the penguins') and a great description, courtesy of my friend Gary, of that trench you're seeing above.

Yellow-Eyed Penguins-  to  be continued 


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Monday, September 14, 2015

New Zealand Gold Rush


Before moving on, I think this might be a good place to talk about New Zealand’s Gold Rush.
Gold was discovered in Otago, New Zealand, in 1861. Within a few years, the population tripled. It wasn’t just prospectors hoping to find their fortunes.  Prospectors need food and supplies,  means of transportation, care for their animals.  

For every gold-seeker, there are two, three, or more people who make their fortunes serving the needs of the prospectors...and maybe ripping them off every now and then.  Every story of a gold rush goes with stories of honest business people developing new settlements, of growing communities and increasing populations that did not depend on gold mining.  

There’s nothing easy about mining gold to get rich.  Stories of gold rushes always go with stories of con artists taking advantage of the naive,  of those who would kill for the claim they didn’t stake, of those who died because of the claim they made.  

Like the gold rushes in Alaska, California and elsewhere, entrepreneurs followed the adventurous. Much of New Zealand’s development took place because of the gold rush.  William Larnach, Australian banker and businessman, was offered the position of manager of the Bank of Otago in Dunedin, which serviced the extensive goldfields. And off he went in 1867 to make his fortune from those seeking their own.

Naturally, our tour has a chance to experience first hand a very tame version of what the gold-seekers may have done.  During one of our stops along a fairly tame creek, we do pan for gold.  That is, we take fine sieves down to the edge of a creek and basically ‘dip and sift’.

The kind of gold that is in these waters would once have been in rocks gradually worn away by sand and water. After millennia of erosion, the gold flecks can be sifted out of the water’s sediment.

Gary and I don’t expect much, but we can’t resist the chance to try panning for gold.  This is a lot easier than trying to climb a northern Alaskan mountain in bitter chill to get to a gold field .... so off Gary and I go to the edge of the water.  

Panning for Gold*

If either of us could have found the photo of me and Gary, I would have shown it.  Honest. 

I think this is the high point of Kate’s day. I say with no regret that although I know Kate mischievously took photos of us, neither of us can find them.  I also took a photo, of no one we know.  That’s Kate in the foreground, standing tall and calm, and that is someone caught panning for gold in a pose in which neither Gary nor I want to be remembered.  
For the record, we also found no gold.

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If you’re interested in panning for gold in NZ, or in more information on the New Zealand Gold Rush, check these sites:

Next: Penguin Place Conservation Reserve

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Te Anau Lake, Lanarch Castle

Our accommodations tonight are near  beautiful Lake Te Anau and the hotel simulates a rustic village, with rooms named for the businesses you would have found there.  


my room at Te Anau  
Fortunately I am not required to use my utterly inconsiderable skills as a fire brigade member--I just get to sleep in the cute building.  I am more interested in Goldfields Law Enforcement and Lock Up.  'Goldfield' was not a person's name, but the origin of this area's growth and development.  More on that later.



Te Anau Lake at night
At dusk, the tranquil lake and mountains in the distance, make a peaceful, low-key ending to a full day.

Early in the morning, we’re off to the Otago peninsula and Dunedin.   I want to call it  Dune-din, but the correct pronunciation, in keeping with its Scottish heritage, is  Dun-Eden.  The rolling green landscape is striking, but what's striking me even more is that it looks like it’s going to be another cloudy/rainy day. :(

Fields to Lanarch 
We stop at Lanarch Castle, the only castle in New Zealand.  Now it's a hotel, sightseeing destination, and event venue.  William Lanarch, originally from Australia, pursued his career in business and banking to New Zealand, following the path of the1860s gold rush.  His business interests expanded, and with them, his wealth.  He began construction of  the castle in 1871 for his first wife, Eliza. Two hundred workmen spent three years building the shell and European craftsmen spent another twelve years embellishing the interior. 


Three happy tourists on the steps to the Lanarch entry

Lanarch Grounds (above and below)

In spite of his good luck in business,  Lanarch’s personal life was beset with tragedy.  His first wife died at 38;  he married her younger sister who also died at 38.  Lanarch married again, but  not long after, his favorite daughter died in her twenties.  The patriarch then sent five of his children to England for their education, adding great gaps to the already tragic family relationships.  In 1898, Lanarch committed suicide leaving no will.  Legal battles ensued; ultimately the family sold the castle in 1906.

Lanarch  Pergola  

We take some time to enjoy the grounds, the castle, and the elaborate life-style that money can buy (in place of happiness?)

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